Pressure is on!!
Yes, things are gunna get intense these next few days. I have a new project and its kinda like a new level of climbing for me. Below are pictures of the new project. Its called the Checkerboard V8, and is one of the most beautiful lines I have ever seen and climbed on. The rock is bullet hard and has perfect patina crimps. Like I mean perfect, they are not sharp and they are all in-cut. It has everything in a boulder problem I like, Its got a nice jug start and finish, its got really nice rock, its granite, its got stellar moves on it, and its a little bit of a high ball! Perfect wouldn't you say? But any way the pressure is on and im stoked, I leave for Florida in four days to visit my Grandparents and my Sister! Im resting today but im going to climb till I leave. Hopefully I can grow some new skin today and tonight because im going to be trying the Checkerboard like everyday probably. Im not getting my hopes up to finish it before I leave because if feels pretty hard but im going to give it my all!!
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| Here is the start moves, its a little tricky because the feet are really slick and if you look below me the ground slopes down. You dont really want to fall here because the landing is not flat and its a big rock thing, so there is potential for hurting yourself.. |
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| Here you are still over the bad landing, but on really good hold for both the hands and the feet. And man do I mean good hand holds, there are like inch deep in-cut crimps that probably will never break! This rock is so solid. |
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| Some really cool cross through moves, then to the lower crux. The lower crux consists of making a hard cross over with the left hand, then gaining a good right hand crimp. |
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| Here you can see the landing is a lot better and flat, and now im over my pads :) Thats a good feeling. haha. But its not over yet, here it starts to get high off the ground and then there is the upper crux which I haven't been able to do yet. |
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| And this is where the upper crux is, for me at least. Once you get the good right hand crimp, you do this funky cross over with the left hand. The feet are really high here and it makes it kinda awkward. Plus the hold for the left hand is not that good.. its kinda sloppy. But anyways once you do the left hand cross over, you drop down to a low crimp for the right hand and then make some hard pulls to good holds and then one last BIG move to the top! Man I am pumped on this boulder! |
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| Here is a different camera angle. |
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| Here you have a better view of how tall and big this boulder really is, its massive! like as big as a house almost! |
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| Good moves here. Really fun and not to hard. |
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Once you leave those good feet, it really starts to get pumpy.. But the end is not very far form there. I really feel like I can do this boulder problem. Its intense because iv only climbed on it for one day and im already kinda nervous and intimidated because its such a famous boulder problem. Chris Sharma did the FA back in the day and yeah its just got some history.
Another thing that Eckhart Tolle wrote about is Enthusiasm. Enthusiasm is enjoying what you are doing but also there is a goal that you are trying to reach. But if you make the goal only about yourself and make it the main focus for the activity then you become stressed and the enjoyment is gone. I feel like this is the same with climbing, if you get to caught up in grades and getting to the top because you feel like it will make you more and you make it a means to an end then the whole point of the activity is lost. But when you are climbing just to climb and test your limits and you remain in the present moment then enjoyment flows into what you do. Its hard to explain but you get the point, dont get caught up in ego and things are much more fun. HAHA.
Well tomorrow im going back to the Checkerboard! Iv got all these emotions in me right now, excited, nervous, fear, anxiety even. But thats alright, for now im just going to focus on the now and we will see what happens tomorrow tomorrow.. But wish me luck! cuz i feel like I need it.
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Love the Eckhart bits and pieces, Dylan. Wonderful!
ReplyDeleteNo rest for your fingers and toes yet?
I love WHAT you do and HOW you do it, son.