Close But Not Quite...

Worked on my project that shouldnt even be a project right now.. I know I can do this problem but I just keep falling and getting pumped out on the last move....!!! Its very frustrating.. and plus every time I feel off I got a new hole some where on my fingers. Like WTF there are holes in my pinky's, my middle finger, and both my pointer fingers. Its annoying! But there healing fast which is good. And tomorrow im going to the Gorge to do some sport climbing and the rock there isnt as sharp. 

Today was cool though, went back to the Checkerboard and dint get any farther but felt stronger and more efficent on it. Then I went to the Knight boulder and climbed The Knight v5 which was fun because there wasnt any chalk on it so it was cool putting the chalk on the holds and not knowing where to go right off the bat. Then after The Knight I went to the Edge Of Reason Boulder and did this beautiful v4 that had perfect glassy patina. It had some really cool moves and holds. Plus I sent it on my last go! which made me happy. So that raised my spirits. 

But yeah check out the pictures from the other day. Enjoy. 

So this is the project that shouldnt even be one.. Its called Sindy Swank v7. Really nice rock, good patina, and some cool slopers. 

This is a big move of a tiny three finger sloppy crimp, might be the crux but I think the crux is up after the lip of the boulder. But once you get the right hand hold, which is really good then you get good feet and move to the lip. 

Here Im establishing on the lip of the boulder, kinda awlkward moves because the right hand is getting in the way for the left had match and it takes a lot of energy to get the hold just right. 

Then boom! hers what feels like the real crux to me. Its this big move to a shitty grainy crimp thing. The hold really sux and the sun was on it so it felt pretty slick.. And every time I fell of it it would cut me... It was making me mad. Its hard to keep your emotions in check when you put everything you have into a rock and have nothing to show for. But thats part of the game I guess.. Bouldering is hard.. and really "climber specific" Like some problems are easyer for tall and some for short people. And there is usually only one way to do a boulder problem. Where-as a sport climb you can find different ways through the curxs and make up your own beta.. But what-ev that bouldering I guess. 

Ahhh... and the one time I got to this hold I came just short of the positive edge!!! Like I could feel it then I started to slip back and could not hang on any longer.. the next move is to a big jug.. Like that time, I was so close... :( I wanted to cry. Because after that I just felt weaker and weaker every time I got back on the problem. 

And then I fall... Boooooo.. 

I tried some Mindful Breathing but it dint really help. Though it was nice to sit in the sun. haha 

This is from today, The Knight v5. Pretty good, short and savvy 

About to make the big move to a sloppy side pull then top out on good holds. I like this problem because it had big moves on some slopers and good feet. :) Gotta love good feet in the Buttermilks, that is usually not what you find. 

Here is another proj. Its called Pain Grain! haha and it is painful and grainy!! But the moves are fun and has cool looking holds. The stand start goes at v5 and the sit goes at v7. Im gunna start working the sit start, there is only one big move thats pretty hard. But with some commitment I think I can stick it.

Well wish me luck in the gorge tomorrow! Im going to try my project down there, its called Darshan a 5.12b. Last week I got on it for the second time ever and did a "One hang" (only fell once). So I hope to send it. But I wont get my hopes to high lately iv been feeling weak and anxious.. Its not good... Its been interfearing with my climbing and just my all-around life..

Sasha DiGiulian: World #1 on Pure Imagination 5.14d [Official HD Video] ...

For those who have not seen this video it is very good and gets me psyched to climb
every time. Super motivational.

Fred Beckey, Outdoor Retailer Awards

this is awesome!!

Lots Of New Pictures!! 

So I gots lots of new pictures, some from today, some from yesterday, and a few from like a month ago.. 

Yesterday Zach and I went to the Owens River Gorge and did some sport climbing. It was awesome! I on-sighted a 5.11b, 5.11c, and a 5.11d! haha it was pretty cool. Thats my second hardest on-sight. (12a in smith rocks) And Zach got to use his new Trad Climbing gear. So we all had a great time! 

And today was pretty sweet to! It was my friend Mikes last day here and he really wanted to get on Seven Spanish Angles V6. Its a super classic and has some of the coolest holds in Bishop. Check out the pics! 

This is my new camp in the Table Lands, really cool place. Its secluded and quiet just how I like it. 

Heres a GIANT slab thing that i was playing on right next to my camp! Its really nice to have good climbing like ten feet away from my tent. :) 

More playing. 

On top of the mega slab! 

This is a spectacular problem called Gromit V4. Perfect rock and smooth moves. 

This is the little crux move, gotta make a scary left hand move up to a sloppy side pull. But it wasnt bad at all, felt pretty chill if ya ask me. 

Toppin out.. 

The tent, the car, and my self at the new camp site! It was very warm today like sixty degrees! 

More playing around by the camp. 

Ahhhh.. this is my new Project!!! Its called Twin Crack V9! Its really sweet, just my style, big moves on slopers and crimps. Love it! Now I gotta send it. 

Me on Seven Spanish Angles. 

Theres my friend Mike on Seven Spanish Angles v6, He was soooo close to sending, one move away! Next time he is in town he will send for sure! 

Toppin out on Spanish Angles. 

The last move is the crux, its a big dyno to a cool jug that was created by water over the years. In fact I think all the holds on this climb were shaped my water running down the face. 

Ah. this move kills me. Its one of the hardest moves on Twin Crack. But I have stuck it a few times, the next few moves arnt as hard. I think I can do it... Maybe ;)

These next few pics are of a beautiful sun rise that I caught on morning when me and Jessie were camped up at the Buttermilks. It was amazing. 

This was camp at the Buttermilks about a month ago. Im gunna move back up there eventually, its really pretty. 

OH YEAH, this is a dead bat I found at the Gorge! Poor guy... 

Mt. Tom in the morning glow. 

The bat... Hope hes in bat heaven. 

Ha here is Zach lookin like a B.A. going through his rack. He was gettin all geared up for a cool 5.9 crack climb. Looked hard to me, Trad Climbing is intense.  

The moon after are adventure in the Gorge! Think it was a full moon. Really nice. 

Hahaha look at that smerk..  He was pumped to get on the rock because its been a month since he had climbed!! Id be pretty pumped also.... Wait! Im always pumped to climb hahaha :))) Its my true love. 

I know I know, Ive been living here in Bishop for like three months and Im still kinda a tourist in a way. (taking pictures of the Buttermilk sign is for tourists) hahaha but it just has so much history and meaning! Dont judge me. :)

Love this pic, thats Amy in the blue, and another guy I met (forgot his name..) And that was his girl friend on the left. All really great people and great climbers. Really a pleasure to meet them and hang out with them. 

There is Mike warming up on the beautiful Sun Shine Naked V0. funny name if you ask me, it wasnt even in the sun.. haha 

Here Jeff is stacking the pads just right so when we bail from the top we wont break are ankles! thanks Jeff for the pad stacking skills. 

Amy up left and another dude I meet today. (gotta get better at remembering names... Iv been meeting a lot of people its kinda hard) 

And there is Mike brushing the sloppy holds.
Just look at that wall! its soooo sick, overhanging with slopers and crazy knobs, and a sweet "thank god jug" at the top. Talk about a perfect climb...


Well Thanks for viewing the photos. Im going to have more tomorrow because im going to the Milks again! haha my skin is hella thin and bleeding in some places.. but after monday im going to rest. And on monday I wont be climbing that hard... At least I dont think I will. hahah.

TTYL for now. Have a great night. 

Good Stuff... :)

Today I was super psyched to go to the Buttermilks and work on my Proj. But.... It rained last night and the boulders were wet... :(  

So I went to the Happys instead and they were nice and dry, It was nice and quite there I think there were only like 5 or six cars there. Usually there are like 50...  I wasn't feeling that strong though I dont know why... it was sorta disappointing but the climbs I got on cheered me up :) Especially this one called Reni its a three star problem and its a high ball!! and damn it was a little scary! But I pushed through the fear and got it done. 

Also today was cool because Im starting to realize and catch my self thinking about the future and other things for fulfillment... And when I do that I realize that everything that is happening in the now seems less alive and dull! It sux!! But once I catch it I instantly feel better and focus on whats going on at that moment. For example Im driving back from the boulder and Im totally lost in thought about what Im going to do tomorrow. "I have to move camp, then I have to go to a job interview, then Im going to the Gorge to climb.... Blah Blah Blah..."And for some reason thinking about all that stuff just stressed me out and made me feel unhappy. But then I saw the mountains, the grass fields, and the clouds, and then I snapped out of thinking and was like HEY!!! Thats tomorrow stuff you are here and there are no problems, in fact everything is awesome, you just got done climbing and had a great time doing it. Stop worrying about the freaking FUTURE!! 

Yeah just had to put that out there, its so funny when you realize that the last ten minutes, or however long, you were lost in you head and dint even know it. Its like come on Dylan don't let your mind control you! But anyway check out the pics! :) 

This first one was an easy but beautiful slab. Dont even know what it was called but I had to climb it because it looked so pretty. 

Some steep, over-hanging, and fun v4. Dont know whats its called but it was pumpy and long! And pretty fun.
Great for warming up and cooling down. 

Just big moves on good holds! My fav. 

Got a little scared so I dropped to the pad here. :) I know I know I need to push through my fears! 

Ahhh.. Saw this thing and was like "I need to climb that!' Perfect bullet hard rock and it had this awesome crack that went all the way to the top. Great fun. Easy but just brilliant. 

Yeah it got a little high...  :0 Dont worry Mom, I felt very in control up there. Hahaha. 

Ahhh yes the highlight of the day.... This folks is Reni.
Dont know where the name came from must me a woman's name or something, its a very pretty name if it is.
But yeah this climb is soooo sick!  Its starts out with a sloppy crimp and an undercling on this slab. Then moves to this big waco and the wall turns over-hanging. Really cool. 

Here im looking at the top, the end is the curx and the top out is around 12 or 13 feet tall. The landing is flat but you really dont want to fall from up there. Like potential ankle sprain. 

This is the second move to the waco, really fun movement, and pretty good holds in the waco. 

Then you bring your feet up high, get your left hand into this undercling, and pull up high! 

Yeah really high, and the hold you are going to is this tiny two finger pocket that is sharp as shit!! So sick!!!
After you get the pocket, you us this little crimp thing that is like two or three fingers and about a forth of a pad wide. You use if for balance basicly. 

Gettin ready for the curx move here!! YIKKS!! 

Then boom! you reach all the way to the lip of the boulder which is like my full span, and catch this good crimp. And I mean catch it, because when you make the move, it feels like your going to fall backwards and by then your really high off the deck and you dont want to fall out of control. 

Yesss... I was pumped on this problem. Another classic v5!


And more on what I was talking about earlyer, on staying present and stuff. I usually get this feeling of discontentment or I get really restless and feel like I always need to do something.. its kinda annoying and creates lots of unneeded stress. But I find these emotions come from constantly wanting something from the future, like this next meal will make me happy or this movie, or anything! But when you just stop and feel your self and breath and know that everything you need you already have, then... you feel peace.

It is hard to find this peace when your always thinking but when you breath and just take your time. It slowly starts to grow and the peace stays with you longer. I dont know, its hard to explain, but always wanting is a silly thing. But I know I have everything I need, even though I sleep in a tent and im going broke, and I have holes in my shoes and socks... But im still happy and when I know that inside I am totally complete, I feel the peace and I am content with my life situation.

Thanks for reading, Hope everyone feels the peace im talking about and I hope everyone loves the life they are living. Because it really is a special and beautiful life. We are all very lucky.