Close But Not Quite...

Worked on my project that shouldnt even be a project right now.. I know I can do this problem but I just keep falling and getting pumped out on the last move....!!! Its very frustrating.. and plus every time I feel off I got a new hole some where on my fingers. Like WTF there are holes in my pinky's, my middle finger, and both my pointer fingers. Its annoying! But there healing fast which is good. And tomorrow im going to the Gorge to do some sport climbing and the rock there isnt as sharp. 

Today was cool though, went back to the Checkerboard and dint get any farther but felt stronger and more efficent on it. Then I went to the Knight boulder and climbed The Knight v5 which was fun because there wasnt any chalk on it so it was cool putting the chalk on the holds and not knowing where to go right off the bat. Then after The Knight I went to the Edge Of Reason Boulder and did this beautiful v4 that had perfect glassy patina. It had some really cool moves and holds. Plus I sent it on my last go! which made me happy. So that raised my spirits. 

But yeah check out the pictures from the other day. Enjoy. 

So this is the project that shouldnt even be one.. Its called Sindy Swank v7. Really nice rock, good patina, and some cool slopers. 

This is a big move of a tiny three finger sloppy crimp, might be the crux but I think the crux is up after the lip of the boulder. But once you get the right hand hold, which is really good then you get good feet and move to the lip. 

Here Im establishing on the lip of the boulder, kinda awlkward moves because the right hand is getting in the way for the left had match and it takes a lot of energy to get the hold just right. 

Then boom! hers what feels like the real crux to me. Its this big move to a shitty grainy crimp thing. The hold really sux and the sun was on it so it felt pretty slick.. And every time I fell of it it would cut me... It was making me mad. Its hard to keep your emotions in check when you put everything you have into a rock and have nothing to show for. But thats part of the game I guess.. Bouldering is hard.. and really "climber specific" Like some problems are easyer for tall and some for short people. And there is usually only one way to do a boulder problem. Where-as a sport climb you can find different ways through the curxs and make up your own beta.. But what-ev that bouldering I guess. 

Ahhh... and the one time I got to this hold I came just short of the positive edge!!! Like I could feel it then I started to slip back and could not hang on any longer.. the next move is to a big jug.. Like that time, I was so close... :( I wanted to cry. Because after that I just felt weaker and weaker every time I got back on the problem. 

And then I fall... Boooooo.. 

I tried some Mindful Breathing but it dint really help. Though it was nice to sit in the sun. haha 

This is from today, The Knight v5. Pretty good, short and savvy 

About to make the big move to a sloppy side pull then top out on good holds. I like this problem because it had big moves on some slopers and good feet. :) Gotta love good feet in the Buttermilks, that is usually not what you find. 

Here is another proj. Its called Pain Grain! haha and it is painful and grainy!! But the moves are fun and has cool looking holds. The stand start goes at v5 and the sit goes at v7. Im gunna start working the sit start, there is only one big move thats pretty hard. But with some commitment I think I can stick it.

Well wish me luck in the gorge tomorrow! Im going to try my project down there, its called Darshan a 5.12b. Last week I got on it for the second time ever and did a "One hang" (only fell once). So I hope to send it. But I wont get my hopes to high lately iv been feeling weak and anxious.. Its not good... Its been interfearing with my climbing and just my all-around life..