"A Pick Me Up Day"

Ahhh today was nice... :) Went to the Gorge with two really cool friends; Zach and Guinn. It was a beautiful day, like 66 degrees still the rock was nice and cold in the shade. It was perfect climbing temps. 

We warmed up on a nice short 5.10a and then moved to are projects. And the nice thing was that all are projects were like right next to each other. Guinn got on Express Way which is this super stellar 5.11b. Its got perfect crimps up this vertical wall then moves to a slightly overhaning pumpy face. He almost sent it, did a one hang, so next time he will send for sure! Good job Guinn! 

As for me, well I got my project done! Its called Darshan 5.12b and its perfect.. Just everything about the route is perfect, the moves, the crux, the rock quality.... everything! It was a surprise because the first time getting on it to day I fell once. And that is usually my best burn on something that is harder then my level of climbing. But after a rest and some foods, I got on it again. But as soon as I got on it I noticed that I wasn't near as strong feeling but I proceeded and when I got to the crux... Well I just went balls to the wall and gave it all I had!!! I was growling and screaming and almost fell... Buts some how my feet stuck to the nothing foot holds and I finished it! It was awesome.. Thats my "pick me up day." 

Here is a view looking up the Gorge from the Express Way/ Darshan wall. Pretty nice wouldnt you say?

There is Guinn on the left and Zach on the right getting his climbin boots on.
Im really stoked on these guys, there truly nice and authentic people. Kind hearted and just fun to hang and talk with :)
Im glad I met them. 

This is a pic I took of some dude across the river, looked like he was having fun. 

Ah here is Guinn on The super classic Express Way. Looks like he is about to clip a draw here. 

Ah nice.. Here is the first little crux. It was a long lock off to a small edge, then big pull to the big jug rail above him. I got on this rout also and yeah those moves are technical! Guinn is just making it look easy ;)
Hes a smooth climber.

Here he has the nice jug rail. It feels good to get that hold, you dont want to leave it behind... But u gotta keep movin on. Great rest spot, thats the nice thing about sport climbing is there is usually a rest jug somewhere on the route. 

HA! here he is doing "Tree Pose" (yoga pose) gotta be flexible to climb sport climbs otherwise you just pump out trying to keep your feet on.

I think of bouldering as brake-dancing, and sport climbing as ballet. Haha, I think im starting to enjoy sport climbing more then bouldering... Its hard to say. Bouldering is just more aggressive and feels like your kinda fighting with the rock.. But when im sport climbing it feels calming and peaceful even when your doing things at your limit. Plus you get in this flow state when sport climbing and it really makes you stay in the present moment, its more of a deeper meditation feeling then bouldering. Probably because you are are on the wall for longer..

IKD, both bouldering and sport climbing are awesome, I just feel the bouldering scene is more caught up in grades and shit. It really kills it when numbers become the goal an not the climb and beauty of the boulder itself.. Like I cant express how much more fun climbing is when you dont get attached to the stupid numbers.. But I have trouble with that for some reason I just get caught up in sending and numbers and it really kills the warm happy feeling that climbing should give. And you lose the calm and peaceful feeling as well, and anger and frustration arise. Its really not good...  I like to ask myself "why do you climb?"  Not for the grade.. But to be part of the Earth and express yourself on the Earth ( on the rocks). Also to push your limits, but mainly to be out in the nature and to experience the world as a whole and one. HAHA man I could talk forever.... sorry people.  

I like this one, good close up of Guinn crushing! 

Crimpy and balancey just the way we like it. Me and Guinn have the same taste for sport climbing, technical crimping on slightly overhaning walls. Its just such a fun style of climbing. like no room for error, and you gotta get every move dialed before it makes it posable to send. 

Ok so this is Darhan! It is my second 5.12b and might be the hardest sport climb I have ever done.. IDK the other 12b in Smith Rocks was hella hard to. But who cares.. So let me tell you about the route: it starts of really bouldery, with to side pulls and a big move to a good crimp clip the second bolt, and get ready for a really powerful move. (below)

This is the power move, you have this sorta good gastone, and small feet. Then you do this massive pull into an shitty undercling! (Picture above)
The undercling getts better once you stand up into it but just bringing your feet up like depleets so much energy. Then you move through some  good holds and then prepare for the technical crux. 

Here is a good view of the route. Where I am in this pic is right near the Red Point Crux, super crazy lock offs on small crimps with feet that are small and hard to see! Plus the wall turns from vertical to over-hanging and gets really pumpy. Like no resting till the top. 

Here is the last rest on the route, its about half way.. Gotta have a little indurance for this route. 

Moving into the steeper terrain. Gettin ready for the Red Point Crux. ( Red Point Crux: not the physical crux, but it is usually a hard bunch of moves that are close to the end of the route. So when you are pumped and tired, it feels like really hard and thats when you are likely to fall..) 

Barin down here. 

This is the good half point rest spot... Man with out this rest, it would make the climb like way harder. 

Nice pic, movin through the steeper sections.

Yeah then the Camera died... So we dint get any photos of Zach which is a bummer. But next time for sure, and Zach did send his project and it was awesome to watch! great Job Zach. U DA MAN!

Tomorrow me and Guinn are goin to the Milks, Zach's gotta work... bummer right. But Guinn is gunna try to finish Seven Spanish Angles ( posted Picture of that problem last week). And im gunna try my project Twin Cracks. Will see how it goes.. Hopefully some progress is made, but if not I will not let it dampen my spirits!! Im over being depressed because I suck at climbing hahaha JK.

But really im going try to just enjoy being.. and thats all.
You should try it to. ;)